Lol, its certainly not going back on the car! tbh though I'm not particularly keen on having a welder full stop after this! Everyone likes to say they do a good job but I've seen or heard shit jobs from just about every 'well respected' tuner or person that I know of. I'm not sure I'd want the risk after experiencing what a welded diff can do.
Bring a open diff to me, and i will show you how a welded diff should look. Infact can i have that diff internals to show customers what a poor job looks like compared to one of mine.
Sure, if you come and collect it I'll get the kettle on. Bring a freshly welded one with you so I can test the err difference or something....
Well, Dave I can collect it from you when I drop those wheels down on my Kent mission, and will be heading up to my old dears the weekend after that, so Clarkey if you want it you can get it from just outside Warwick after 10th March ish??
I've killed two so far both times they haven't locked, third (and current) one is done at least 10k, lesson is that get someone to weld it thats done it before, not the local metalworks dude who doesn't know what it is....
Wonder if people realize how much a welded diff needs proper cleaning after welding??? One such small welding-bullit (which you get dozens of when you weld, dont know what you call those small spheres in english) between the ring and pinion or in one of the bearings can actually be enough to lock the whole system.
I was thinking that. Surely you can't do a proper job of it and clean it whilst the mechanism is still in its casing like most people seem to get them told?
I normaly stick weld the diffs just because i can use some very large filler rods, but most people use a hobby mig, big difference.... I may cut this diff in half and show you how little its actualy took to the metal. when i'm welding something, i normraly go for the largest amount of power i can without warping shit, but you have to clean the diff like its brand new before you start then clean it out after. You should also prewarm it for welding, otherwise the "shock" will make it crack. clarkey.
Well, I actually put my welded diff into a container of diesel. Then i used a socket, which I connected to an electric drill, and used the drill to spin the diff at full speed. Did that almost ten times until the bottom of the diesel-container didnt contained any welding bullets anymore. Havent tried the diff yet, but at least its properly cleaned! Im going to install it next weekend, cant wait!! Will be a lot of fun, going into my daily driven E-30 325
Proper diff: {} Everything molten together.... TIG baby Although it did generate a lot of heat so not the best.
mine was on the cef for at least a year , 15-20 drift days and a fair few miles on it and its sweet as a nut .. but as its been said before , weld it good and make sure i cleant he fucker properly after welding . Mitch did mine and he made me spend about 15 mins with a magnet getting all the weld blobs and shit out , not to mention he rinsed it out a few times i got a N/A Auto r32 diff here ... not sure if they fit s13'a as its out the cef
Mine looks exactly like this. Probably something to do with the guide I printed out from Trampdrift. Although I gave other photos and suggestions, my guy said this is the best and it will hold it well. Any comments on that?
It's how most of my diffs were welded and they never came unwelded. My newer diffs are just welded in the cog joins and not with the plate in the middle (the traditional way) also no problems
