Welded Diff help (1 Viewer)

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Oct 23, 2007
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I have a new to me 1978 FJ40 with a welded rear diff. Spider gears welded together. I cannot get the spacer out to remove the axles. Any ideas. I have a torch, angle grinder, sawsal.....see pics.

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I don't see the pin so it looks like you already have it out. That spider gear showing would have the pin going through it and it isn't there.
 
That's a mess. Maybe some thin cut-off wheels for the side grinder and cut right through the gear. Might have to do both sides. Is the spacer welded in also or is it just trapped in there by the weld globs? Can it move at all in there? If so maybe a die grinder would give it clearance to come out.
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Have you tried a drift pin and hammer on the spacer to see if it'll move? Maybe rotate it back and forth and smack it each direction to loosen it up?
 
I wonder if the axles are already damaged though.
May be. With the weld splatter still on the spacer, it looks obvious it was welded in place. Weld splatter may have also made it out to the wheel bearings and if the axles are the style without inner races, the axles may be damages on the outer ends as well.
I had a similar problem a few years back. "Welded Spider Gear Fail"
 
Before I got too crazy time-wise, I’d spin that thing around 180 degrees. Directly opposite the main access port in the carrier is a smaller, but still substantial secondary access used during assembly. You could run a 3/4” pipe in through the secondary port once it is facing out and whack away with a BFH to see if the block might come out sans grinding/ torch work.
 
Decided to go nuclear. Ps axle is removed unscathed. Still working on DS. Cut the spider gear out as described above. See pic. Removed spacer and then ps axle. Trying to get the ds brake drum removed so I can see if the axle has any play before doing any additional damage.....thanks for the ideas.

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Success!!!! I removed the brake drum and used behind to move axle inward so I could remove the retaining clip... Then I spun the carrier around ..after some grinding to clearance the torch slag...and cut the other spider gear out with the torch. Removed the side gears and bamO.
I will remove the whole carrier now and clean it out and prepare for new spider gears to be delivered.

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I used a BFH ...not behind....
 
Take a REALLY good look at both ends of the pin you pulled out at the start. If the ends are shiny, chances are the holes in the carrier are oblong and you should replace the whole 3rd, not just the spiders.
 
If this was in Australia could just remove the inner axles from the hubs and pulled the carrier out. Not sure I would have even messed with trying to save the carrier.
 
I will def check the pin and the holes for any abnormalities.......I knew there would be a catch somewhere:mad:
 
I will def check the pin and the holes for any abnormalities.......I knew there would be a catch somewhere:mad:
I snapped a pin in half and had a very wallowed hole. A carrier is cheap. And you could learn how to setup a diff if you rebuild it yourself.
 
Great job getting that out of there. Dang, what a mess. Why would someone weld the diff when lunchbox lockers are reasonably priced?
 
Did the bearing surfaces survive the weld splatter? Those later axles don’t have an inner bearing race and the balls of the axle bearing ride on the axle.

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Why would someone weld the diff when lunchbox lockers are reasonably priced?
I know why. As with my P.O. whom I know well. He had no skill to install a lunchbox locker or knew anyone to do it for free. He did however get a welder to weld them up for free. Did it in place and they broke loose the first time and required re-welding. When I got it, it held for about 18 years then busted loose again. That's when the lunchbox went in. But the debris had wiped out the axles & bearings. "Spider Gear Weld Fail"
 

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