weld the spider gears to the side gears and weld the side gears to the carrier.

welded fronts suck,,and will help aide in busted birfs,,but just like the pic and the threas says,,,weld all spiders together,,and to the carrier...Make sure it is free of oil and really clean to get good welds..also make sure you clean the berries out after welding it..I used the anti dingle berry spray with good results..don't rember the name of it,,but its sold at some napa and most welding stores..

use a torch to heat up the carrier when you go to weld the gears to it. it makes for much easier welding.

One more

Not arguing, but what is the difference between a Detroit locker in the front and a welded diff in front as far as stress goes? Obviously the locker unlocks when turning but these situations are usually not under load anyway. When the locker locks and unlocks under load doesn't that multiply stress? What are you supposed to run in the front?

A locker has a little bit of 'give'; welded diffs have no 'give'.

ARB air lockers is the best (and most costly) solution.

If you have an ARB locked ,  it is no different than a welded diff . Either one is gonna be hard to turn , you just have the option of unlocking an ARB. I am not a fan of selectable lockers for front use. I don't want to have to un-lock the front end every time I need to make a tight turn or have to lock the front end "when you need it". Everyone I know with an ARB is constantly flipping switches.

Go with a detroit and just wheel the piss out of it. It will release when you turn and lock when your going forward , no need for all that switch flipping.    Just my